|
From The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, Atlanta, Georgia,
January 24, 2001 (Living)
Getaway: Old Florida's
served in comfort, style
Bokeelia
Tarpon Inn by Charlotte
Harbor gives visitors as much laid-back luxury as they
desire, plus lotsof peace and quiet.
Paula
Crouch Thrasher - Staff
Wednesday, January 24, 2001
Bokeelia, FL
The large screened-in
second-story porch at the Bokeelia Tarpon Inn, with its
sweeping view of Charlotte Harbor and Gasparilla Island
to the north, is a perfect place to let the world go by.
It's a great retreat where you can read, play a game of
Monopoly or just watch the ebb and flow of life as it
moves quietly by in this laid-back community on the
north end of Pine Island, off Florida's southwest coast.
Little traffic passes
along the narrow lane called Main Street that traces the
southern shore of the harbor and dead-ends into a
trailer park just beyond the Crossed Palms Gallery, the
rustic fishing pier and Capt'n Con's Fish House. Every
now or then, a car drives by and seems to slow down to
get a look at this stately yellow and white inn in the
palms. A kid on a bicycle glides past. A jogger trots
by. A couple out exercising their frisky golden
retrievers turns the corner.
This unassuming little
fishing village may seem at first to be an unlikely
place for an upscale bed and breakfast, but it doesn't
take long for us to be caught up in its Old Florida
ambience and myriad charms.
The inn has only been
open since mid-December, and we are glad to be among the
first guests. In fact, on this night, we have the house
to ourselves. After greeting us and showing us around,
innkeeper Chris Desjarlais-Lueth hands over the keys and
tells us to make ourselves at home.
This includes full access
to the kitchen; raiding the well-stocked refrigerator
and freezer for bedtime --- or anytime --- snacks is
encouraged. A quick peek inside the fridge reveals some
yummy-looking slices of key lime pie, yogurt, fruit and
soft drinks, bottled water, cheese, cut-up fruit and, in
the freezer, ice cream treats and individual frozen
pizzas.
We are kids in the
proverbial candy store.
The handsome inn ---
derelict and missing a front door just five years ago
--- is the restored 1914 Poe-Johnson house, one of the
earliest homes built on the island. Inside, the
woodwork, hardwood floors and fireplace are mostly
original. The furnishings were custom-made in Indonesia.
Off the living room is
the den. Here's where guests find bottles of single malt
scotch, ports or sherries for nightcaps. And there's a
fly-tying bench with all the materials for
nimble-fingered fisherman to craft their own colorful
fishing flies, plus books and periodicals on sport
fishing. Long, sturdy rods and reels for tarpon fishing
are mounted on the walls.
After all, the sport of
tarpon fishing originated in Pine Island Sound in the
late 1880s, and Boca Grande Pass between Cayo Costa and
Gasparilla Island claims to be the "Tarpon Capital of
the World." Tarpon migrate here by the thousands in
April, May and June, and fishermen follow, hoping to
land one of the fighting giants that can weigh hundreds
of pounds.
The fisherman's lair,
which has a Murphy bed, can double as a handicapped
access guest room, complete with accessible bath
facilities. Another guest room is downstairs as well,
while four others are upstairs.
All are named for islands
in Pine Island Sound: Useppa, Cayo Costa, Boca Grande,
Captiva and Bocilla. Light-filled and airy, the rooms
have louvered shutters for privacy. In each private
bathroom, toiletries are stashed in fishing creels hung
on the walls. Each room has a queen-sized bed and is
individually decorated --- ours, the Cayo Costa, is
swathed in soothing neutrals while our daughter's room,
the Boca Grande, is a lively palette of coral and
turquoise.
Breakfast is served
downstairs in the dining room. In addition to cereals,
muffins and fresh fruit spread out on the buffet, there
is a hot main dish--- during our visit, excellent bacon,
egg and cheese quiche.
It seems they've thought
of everything: Guests are given small canvas tote bags
with the inn's name embossed on the front; inside ours
are chocolates, a couple of pieces of fruit and a
disposable camera.
A cache of big black
umbrellas is waiting by the front door in case of a
sudden downpour. A row of bicycles stands ready if you
get the urge to take a spin around the island. There's a
golf cart if pedaling's not your thing.
Want to rent a canoe or
kayak to explore the backwaters or creeks? They can fix
you up. Want to rent a fishing boat and equipment? Just
ask.
Want to be left alone? No
problem with that either.
For now, the porch is a
fine nest. As dusk begins to settle around the northern
tip of the island, the breezes off the harbor grow
colder, but we toss on another layer and stay put,
nibbling on the cheeses, summer sausage, nuts and fruit
our hostess has prepared for us, and sipping a 1997 KWV
Australian Merlot we selected from the inn's fine
collection of domestic and imports. Had it been spring
--- or even a milder winter's day --- we could easily
while the night away out here, lingering long after the
pinkish-purple sky of twilight turns inky black.
Instead, we follow our noses to the Capt'n's for
no-frills fried seafood dinners.
Several days before our
visit, Jon and Sam Bolen of Gainesville were guests at
the Tarpon Inn. They were staying at a BandB in nearby
Fort Myers when they read about the new inn in the local
newspaper. Since they were planning on driving out to
Pine Island to visit Sam's grandmother anyway, they
decided to check it out. They were so charmed by the
inn, they booked two nights and Sam went back into town
to retrieve their belongings.
"It was the single best
bed and breakfast I've ever stayed in," says Jon Bolen,
managing director at Radiant Systems in Alpharetta. "It
was so isolated, and the decor was just perfect in
setting the tone and mood."
One afternoon, he says he
went kayaking despite a constant drizzle and the
temperature never rising much over 50 degrees.
"When I got back in,
Chris (the innkeeper) was adamant that I have a glass of
sherry," Bolen says. "I really was trying to unwind, and
she made a personal quest to make me relax. That was
exactly what I was looking for."
Comparing notes, we
discover both our families opted to walk to Capt'n Con's
rather than drive more than 10 miles to Froggy's in St.
James City, a new restaurant that's among the ones Chris
recommends. We marvel at the wonderful wines available
to inn guests, and laugh about the abundance of snacks
--- so many munchies, so little time.
"And we spent hours on
that porch," Bolen admits. Having been there and done
that, it comes as no surprise.
Getaway: YOUR WEDNESDAY
GUIDE to QUICK and GOOD DEALS IF YOU GO Getting there:
Delta and AirTran fly to Southwest Florida Regional
Airport in Fort Myers for $178 round trip. From the
airport, take I-75 north to Exit 26, then follow Pine
Island Road (Fla. 78) to Pine Island. Take a right at
the four-way stop at Stringfellow Road. Continue seven
miles until road curves to the left. At this point you
are on Main Street in Bokeelia. The inn is less than a
mile on the left.
Rates: Through April 15, rates are $250-$290 a night,
single occupancy. Extra person, $30. 1-866-827-7662,
www.tarponinn.com.
Area attractions: The 59-passenger Tropic Star of Pine
Island, an African Queen-style boat, offers a full-day
narrated nature cruise to Cayo Costa and Cabbage Key.
Departs Bokeelia daily at 9:30 a.m. 8135 Main St.,
Bokeelia. $25 adults, $15 children under 12.
941-283-0015, www.tropicstarcruises.com.
The Museum of the Islands traces Pine Island's history
from ancient Calusa Indians to early fishing pioneers.
Exhibits include an authentic palm-thatched kitchen with
old-time utensils and household items from early
settlers, remnants from the lives of the Calusas and
displays on how archaeological explorations are
conducted. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, 1-4 p.m.
Sundays through April. (11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesdays,
Thursdays and Saturdays, May through October.) $1
adults, 50 cents ages 6-16, free for ages 6 and younger.
5728 Sesame Drive, Bokeelia. 941-283-1525.
Information: 941-283-0888 (Great Pine Island Chamber of
Commerce). Also, 1-888-231-6933, www.leeislandcoast.com
(Lee Island Coast Convention and Visitors Bureau).
back to
top
From South Florida Sun-Sentinal, March 9, 2003
Excerpts from "Heaven near the
Harbor on Charming Pine Island"
Bokeelia Tarpon Inn was rescued from
neglect
By Robert Tolf, Special Correspondent
"Sanibel and Captiva are
not the only islands worth your time west of Fort Myers.
There's Pine Island, anchored by Matlacha at the center,
St. James City on the southern end and, 18 miles distant
on the only road on the island, Bokeelia on the northern
tip facing Charlotte Harbor. Definitely not Sanibel or
Captiva and still blessedly free of the glitter and
glam, the gated golf course condominiums and the strip
malls."
"Bokeelia competed for
attention from snowbirds and adopted its Spanish name,
meaning 'little mouth,' when early settlers started
building their homes away from home."
"The oldest survivor in
Bokeelia date from 1904 and today houses a restaurant,
Cap'n Con's."
"A two-story survivor
from 1914, known as the Poe-Johnson house, was rescued
from a half-dozen years of neglect and very carefully
restored to bring the heart of pine floors and walls
back to life. The fireplace was restocked and new paddle
fans were installed."
"Lots of wicker from
Indonesia was added to the main floor and porch areas,
and some was used in the six guest rooms, which have
individual temperature control units, private baths,
louvered shutters and comfortable queen-size beds,
telephones but no TV's."
"The dedicated midwife
responsible for the rebirth of this historic property is
Chris Desjarlais-Lueth, who opened for bed-and-breakfast
business two years ago."
"A retired librarian from
Brown University, and possibly the only retired
university librarian ever to do something so completely
different as opening a BandB. At least in Florida."
"Especially one that
caters happily to fisherfolk. The waters around the
Bokeelia Tarpon Inn teem with tarpon, redfish, snook and
sea trout where local fishing guides demonstrate the
fine art of tying lures. There's the only television in
the inn, ad it has a library of fishing videos,
including instructional ones on fly-tying."
"...you don't have to do
any more at the Bokeelia Tarpon Inn than kick off your
shoes and sit back on the porch, gazing out a Boca
Grande and the panorama of giant Charlotte Harbor.
There's plenty of snack stuff plus complimentary wine
for an afternoon attitude readjustment at sunset time."
"You start your day at
Bokeelia Tarpon with hearty breakfast built around fresh
squeezed grapefruit and orange juice, sticky buns,
choice of cereals and freshly brewed coffee, plus a
healthy portion of good ole biscuits and gravy. And you
end it with the comforting confidence that you have in
fact stepped back in time and found a simpler form of
Florida."
back to
top
What our Guests
are Saying
"The Best Bed and
Breakfast we've ever stayed in! Wonderful hospitality!
Hope to return soon! Fantastic weather!" (MK, Palm
Beach, FL)
"Can't wait to come
back, one of our favorites." (MG, Stuart, FL)
"The ambiance,
decoration, breakfast and style are wonderful. Thank you
for a laid back weekend." (KD, Boca Raton, FL)
|
"What a
fabulous stay! Great food, great fishing, great
relaxing!!" "The halcyon days of old Florida!!"
(CT and MP, Palm Beach, FL)
"The standard
bearer for B+B's! Accommodations and fishing
were outstanding. We'll be back." (TP,
Scottsdale, AZ)
"Our 5 night
stay at the Bokeelia Tarpon Inn was filled with
5 adventurous days, from the wonderful beaches
at 'Cayo Costa' to a day trip at 'Boca Grande'.
Also a romantic boat ride to 'Captiva Island for
dinner. But best of all, the last night was
sitting on the pier watching the sunset and
sipping on one of the delicious wines. thank you
so much...for having made our vacation very
special." (DM and YR, Weston FL)
"We came to
celebrate our anniversary. It could not
"What a great time we had! Thanks
for taking such great care of us! We'll be back
soon!" (MS and DH, Westfield, IN)
have been better
-- unless Ernest Hemingway had been here to read
to us! The Inn is so beautiful and the
screened-in porch is marvelous! Thank you for a
grand time!" (GN, Beverly Hills, MI)
"Wonderful!
Too good for guests!!! Beautiful. Very good
stay." (VC, Southampton, UK)
"Exactly what
we needed! This is the perfect get-a-way from
the city. Thanks, our engagement weekend was
perfect!" (MW and PR, Cartersville, GA)
"A wonderful
house, restful atmosphere topped by delicious
food and marvelous hospitality. We will always
remember this holiday." (BC and CC, Hampshire,
UK) |

There's a secret in Bokeelia
Not too very far away
You can "while-away the hours"
And watch the dolphins play.
The entire Inn is immaculate
The decor is divine
The porch view is just beautiful
And what a choice of wine!
Should I ever get to heaven
I'll already know my way
Right down Main Street through Bokeelia
Tarpon Inn is where we'll stay!!!!
The 'P'
Family (FL, CT and VA)
back to top
|
|